Belgium: Geraardsbergen Mattentaart

People living in the rich pastureland areas around the East Flanders city of Geraardsbergen (or Gramont as French-speaking Belgians would call it) claim that this particular pastry can be made properly nowhere else. Opinions will vary as to why this should be. Probably basic to the whole business is the local milk, for this cake depends heavily on the Geraardsbergen area's dairy produce -- milk and buttermilk, used to prepare the unique, fine, dry curd for the cheesecake part (matten means "curds": the French-language name for the cake is tarte aux matons), and butter for the puff pastry.

At the European Union level, at least, it seems that someone agrees with the bakers of Geraardsbergen as regards the special qualities of their pet product. The mattentaart was the first Flemish food product to be granted (in 2006) the much-sought-after European Regional Product status, designating it as qualifying for a PDO or Protected Designation of Origin. This means that a pastry can only be called Mattentaart if it was actually produced in Geraardsbergen (or the city's neighbouring village of Lierde) and made using the traditional, ancient recipe -- which dates back to 1510 -- while also using milk from the region. With this in mind, it's probably no surprise that the mattentaart was chosen as one of the two Belgian "national birthday cakes" for the European Union's 50th birthday celebrations.

If you're lucky enough to come across a genuine mattentaart, you're in for a treat. The addition of eggs and a touch of ground almond or almond essence to the cheesecake mixture produces a flavor that's surprisingly complex for something so simple... and the puff pastry adds a delightful, tender crunch, far better in its way than the usual cheesecake crust.

Click on "read more" for the recipe.

Ingredients:

• 1 liter milk

• 250 ml buttermilk
• 100 grams sugar
• 3 eggs
• 1 teaspoon almond essence
• 2 sheets ready-made puff pastry

Bring the milk to a boil in a heavy pan. When it's boiling, add the buttermilk and stir well. The mixture will curdle as you stir.

Remove the pan from the heat and prepare a fine sieve by lining it with a linen dishtowel or double layer of cheesecloth. Place the sieve over a deep pot and pour the curd mixture through it. Allow to drain in a cool place for at least twelve hours. (Stir or loosen the curds occasionally if necessary to help them drain.)

When the curds have drained, separate the egg yolks from the egg whites. Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks. In a food processor, or with an electric beater, beat together the curds, egg yolks, almonds and sugar. Fold the egg whites carefullly and evenly into the mixture until completely incorporated.

Preheat the oven to 400F / 200C. Butter a cake pan / tin. Cut the puff pastry to fit: line the bottom of the tin with it. Add the egg / curd mixture. Place the second layer of puff pastry on top of the filling. Make several incisions on the upper pastry layer.

Put the tart in the preheated oven and bake at 400F / 200C for ten minutes. Reduce to a moderate heat (350F / 175C) and bake for a further fifteen minutes. Then raise the oven heat to 400F / 200C again for a final five minutes of baking.

Remove from oven and allow to cool before serving.

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