A distant cousin of the ancient Spanish marmelado or quince confection, itself a distant ancestor of modern marmalade.

• 1 kilogram large ripe quinces, cut into wedges without peeling or coring
• 750 grams sugar
• strained juice of 1 lemon
• 150 grams of mixed crystallize fruits such as apricots, pears, cherries or plums, diced if large
• 250 grams walnuts, roughly chopped
• Granulated sugar for coating

Boil the quinces with a little water until soft and mushy, then puree while hot. Discard the skins and seeds. Transfer the puree to a preserving pan, add the sugar and lemon juice, and cook over a moderate heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the puree thickens and leaves the sides of the pan. Remove from heat and stir in the fruit and nuts.

Turn out onto a work surface and shape into a thick sausage or salami shape as soon as it is cool enough to handle. Roll it in granulated sugar and leave to cool completely. Serve thinly sliced into rounds.