A traditional Finnish treatment for mashed potatoes, perunasoselaatikko is often seen as a side dish on Christmastime tables in Finland, where it's served with baked ham. It makes an excellent accompaniment for roasts and stews.

The enthusiastic whipping involved makes these potatoes come out as a very light and delicate dish, just one step away from a soufflé (another egg and a little more cream would make all the difference). The whole business puffs up a little in the oven and develops lovely crispy crackly crevasses and browned bits on the top if you've buttered it enough.

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• 6 medium potatoes, peeled
• 2 eggs, beaten well
• 1 cup cream or milk
• Salt to taste
• 4 tablespoons butter (or more to taste)
• 6 tablespoons finely ground dry breadcrumbs

Cook, then mash the potatoes. (Some people say that it works better to boil the potatoes in their skins, peel them hot and then mash them.) Whisk the cream or milk into the beaten eggs, along with the salt: beat into the potatoes with the butter. Beat the potato mixture with a whisk or electric beater until very fluffy.

(Note: make sure you do this whipping with hot mashed potatoes. The heat of the potatoes cooks the egg, thickening the mixture and helping it become fluffy. If you try to do this dish using cold or merely warm mashed potatoes, you will wind up with a puréed effect which will fall way short of the desired result.)

Generously butter a 1-quart casserole and turn the potatoes into it. Use a fork to "peak up" the surface of potato mixture in the casserole: then sprinkle the bread crumbs over. Dot the topping with more butter. Bake in a moderately hot oven (375F / 190C) for 20 to 25 minutes or until the top is nicely browned. Serves 6.

A traditional Finnish main dish that goes well with this is Karjalan paisti or Karelian Ragout (a three-meat stew).