Canary

The potato originally evolved in mountainous country with poor soil, and still grows best in such places. In the Canary Islands, which are perfect for growing potatoes because of their ancient volcanic soil, numerous potato varieties grow that can be found nowhere else. Among the locals, the papas arragudas technique is one of the most popular ways to treat them.

Papas arragudas translates from the Spanish as "wrinkly potatoes". This traditional dish is possibly descended from older versions popular among the local Guache fishermen and other people who work near the water. The potatoes were boiled in a bucket of sea water, then drained and steamed dry in such a way as to keep a light crust of salt on the potatoes.

After that, treatments vary from cook to cook: but one favorite way with arragudas is to sauce them liberally with a spicy salsa called mojo. Recipes vary, but most involve vinegar, olive oil, and lots of hot chiles. When served this way, the dish is called Mojos canarion.

These days papas arragudas is one of the best-known Canarian dishes, which almost every visitor to the Canary Islands is likely to run into sooner or later. It has spread widely through Spain, where it's a favorite as bar food, a side dish, or served as part of an array of tapas.

The recipe...