Geraardsbergen

People living in the rich pastureland areas around the East Flanders city of Geraardsbergen (or Gramont as French-speaking Belgians would call it) claim that this particular pastry can be made properly nowhere else. Opinions will vary as to why this should be. Probably basic to the whole business is the local milk, for this cake depends heavily on the Geraardsbergen area's dairy produce -- milk and buttermilk, used to prepare the unique, fine, dry curd for the cheesecake part (matten means "curds": the French-language name for the cake is tarte aux matons), and butter for the puff pastry.

At the European Union level, at least, it seems that someone agrees with the bakers of Geraardsbergen as regards the special qualities of their pet product. The mattentaart was the first Flemish food product to be granted (in 2006) the much-sought-after European Regional Product status, designating it as qualifying for a PDO or Protected Designation of Origin. This means that a pastry can only be called Mattentaart if it was actually produced in Geraardsbergen (or the city's neighbouring village of Lierde) and made using the traditional, ancient recipe -- which dates back to 1510 -- while also using milk from the region. With this in mind, it's probably no surprise that the mattentaart was chosen as one of the two Belgian "national birthday cakes" for the European Union's 50th birthday celebrations.

If you're lucky enough to come across a genuine mattentaart, you're in for a treat. The addition of eggs and a touch of ground almond or almond essence to the cheesecake mixture produces a flavor that's surprisingly complex for something so simple... and the puff pastry adds a delightful, tender crunch, far better in its way than the usual cheesecake crust.

Click on "read more" for the recipe.