lunch

In this country that's blessed with some of the best seafood in the world, it's ironic that religion has left many Irish people with a bad taste in their mouths as regards fish. The present older generation remembers a time when fast days were more rigorously observed than they are now, and every Friday was a meatless day whether you liked it or not. These days, when effortless refrigerated transport is a given and even little towns have supermarkets with fresh fish, it's hard to remember that even just fifty years ago there were places in Ireland (especially inland) where the only fish you could get your hands on were either salted or canned.

Even at such times, though, the sweet white flesh of cod has always been an Irish favorite. The reaction here has been bitter at times when cod fishing had to stop for a year or three because the stocks in the waters between here and Iceland had been overfished. These days as much cod comes to Irish shoppers from the south Pacific as from the north Atlantic: fish from New Zealand routinely turn up on the fishmonger's slab along with the traditional Icelandic cod.

While the most popular treatment for cod is probably still the straightforward batter-frying, cod is also a fish that bakes well, and stands up well to other robust flavors such as bacon. This traditional treatment adds onions and potatoes, and makes a substantial and tasty cold-weather lunch or supper dish.

Click on "read more" for the recipe.